The Avid 7x19x6 Ceramic Front Engine Bearing offers the maximum performance and reliability to almost all .21/.28 racing engines on the market at an unbeatable price. The bearing specs are Abec5, 7 G3 Si3N4 Ceramic Balls, PA66 with 30 Glass Fiber Cage, Chrome Steel 52100 Rings, and two rubber seals. A ceramic engine bearing can allow most RC engines to spin an extra 500 rpm with less drag and the life of the bearing is far greater over a steel bearing. Another benefit to ceramics is the weight difference in the balls allowing for less rotating mass (0.8g lighter then the steel ball version of this bearing).
Engines Used In
- Almost all .21/.28 engines
- Diagnosing: Typically you can tell a front bearing is going out if after a run there is a large wet spot on the bottom of your motor next to the flywheel. A little bit of wet is ok and usually just a sign of a rich low-end needle. If the bearing is bad your signs will be inconsistant tune and possible chance of damaging the crank/case if it completely goes.
- Installation: The best way to install is to use a bearing puller/installer, OFNA makes a very affordable one. If you place the new bearing in the freezer for 15 minutes it will be easier to install.
- Positioning: This bearing has a rubber seal on each side. There is a lot of debate on leaving both seals on the bearing or taking one off and installing the bearing with the rubber seal facing the outside world. Contray to popular belief, the seal is not designed to keep fuel from coming out of the engine. The seal is ONLY there to keep dirt from coming into the bearing. Personally I pop out one seal with an X-acto just to increase the performance of the bearing even further. However there is a large following for leaving both of them on. You will be amazed how freely this bearing spins even with both seals on so the choice is up to you.
- Break In: For the first run of these bearings, Avid suggests that you fatten your motor up on the high-end needle so the ceramic balls will seat instead of skidding them.